I have attempted to write this blog post more than a handful of times. My head and heart were not in a place to write about our recent travel when we returned home in March of 2020. We returned after the pandemic had just begun and it had already overtaken our emotions. Many months have since passed and I’m finally ready to share what was a wonderful adventure to Oman. On Travel Tuesday in November 2019, Neil messaged me while I was at work and asked if I had any places I’d like to travel to next. We had already been on many adventures in 2019 and I hadn’t given it too much thought on my own, so I resorted to my old standby–Pinterest. It only took me a few minutes of skimming and I was able to send a short list to Neil, which included Oman. He was intrigued and quickly found great rates on fights for the following March.
As the months passed from the time we booked, we researched our new destination and decided on hotels. We were also recommended a private tour guide, Khair, from another Instagram travel couple. This was to be our first trip with a tour guide for most of our time in the country and we figured that was the best way to maximize our ability to soak in the culture. About 2 weeks before we were to leave for Oman, Khair contacted Neil to let him know that he would not be able to give us a tour due to being sent to Germany by the Ministry of Tourism. He would not abandon us and replaced himself with his friend, Salim, another freelance tour guide (We actually did get to hang out with Khair a couple times during the trip after he got back from Germany). Both Khair and Salim were phenomenal and we highly recommend them.
Our flight out of DFW on Lufthansa went through the airline’s hub in Frankfurt in early March. I had neglected to remember that many of the flights require bus transfers to the main terminal and we weren’t dressed for the sub-30 degree Farenheit weather. Thankfully it was just a short time outside, through several terminals, and connecting trains. That first flight was just over 9 hours and our second flight would end up being another 6 hours to Muscat via Oman Air. Both flights were really without issue, and we were thankful to arrive late night at the Kempinski Hotel Muscat.
The original plan was to take a snorkeling trip out to the Daymaniyat Islands for that first full day, but as we arrived in our hotel room, we got an email stating that there were expected high winds the next morning and our trip was canceled. In hindsight, while snorkeling would have been wonderful, Neil and I both soaked in the day at the hotel pools and really enjoyed just hanging out and adjusting to this new continent.
The buffet breakfast at the Kempinski was outstanding. This trip marked our second international adventure since switching to plant-based eating and there was no shortage of selection for the meal. Fresh fruit and vegetables, daily curries and roti, and of course, dates and Omani coffee. I’ll share more about the dates in a bit, but Omani coffee is flavored with cardamom in the grounds, sometimes even with some rose water. The very small cups are delightful and served with dates to introduce sweetness to the bite of the coffee. The Kempinski offered multiple kinds of local honey, which I sampled for the two breakfasts we got to enjoy.
After spending the day poolside, where we were well-served with a cooler containing ice and cold water, fruity beverages, and fresh coconut slices, Neil and I asked the concierge where we could walk to dinner and were recommended The Walk. This area was about a 10 minute quick stroll around the corner from the Kempinski, and once we got there, there was a plentiful selection of restaurants. We settled on a Lebanese restaurant, Zahr El Laymoun, which had a seating selection for Shisha or non-Shisha and we opted for Shisha.
Our meal was phenomenal, with a menu that had plenty of plant-based options. The Shisha was an incredibly enjoyable experience including flavorful Hookah while people watching the passing crowds throughout the evening.
The next morning we enjoyed another expansive selection from the buffet before we met Salim. Our first car trip was about 1 hour and 45 minutes to the ancient city of Nizwa. Nizwa welcomed us with views that I had never seen before; markets for livestock, fruit, dates, spices, and incense surround the Fort Nizwa.
The date market was incredible with a selection I did not know existed. There are more than 250 varieties of dates that can be found in Oman, and that’s before they get soaked in honey or sesame seeds. While the dates are often served with coffee to add sweetness, the coffee also offsets the absorption of the high-sugar content of the dates. After nearly every meal, we were able to join in this custom with Salim while learning about his family and home.
Inside the Fort, we were greeted by a musical performance accompanied by swords. We had our first taste of Omani bread, “healthy bread” as it is more commonly known since its ingredients are only flour, water, and salt, handmade right before our eyes by women tucked away in much needed shade. Further in the Fort, we encountered the animals, including a cow that pulled buckets of water from 7 wells at once.
We hopped back in the car for another short trip to the Al Hamra village of Misfat al Abreyeen, where we took in 500 year old structures surrounded by palm trees. Hiking through the village, the water source flows in a channel that became our walking path, accompanied by so many toads!
After a nice buffet lunch, we settled back in the car for a long, off-road journey up to Jebel Shams, where we would spend the night at Sama Heights Resort. Off-roading was not particularly enjoyable, but it was really the only way to get up the mountainside. We spent some time outside along the ride with some friendly goats before we enjoyed a great dinner at the resort and enjoyed our evening in our cabin style room.
The next morning we woke early to begin our hike along the Jebel Shams balcony. I may have noted my fear of heights previously, and this was a bit of a challenge for me, but the views were stunning. Once we noticed that mountain goats were gleefully hopping along the ridge well above our heads, that calmed me a bit, but occasional glances into the canyon still turned my stomach.
From the canyon, we had a longer journey to Maqabil to see the UNESCO site known as the Beehive Tombs. There was no marked parking or trail up to the site, but we scrambled up the rocky hill to take in the site of the beehive shaped burial tombs.
Another hour and half back to see the Jibreen Castle, along the way stopping for coffee and tea and snacks. Nearly all roadstops in the Muscat area offer gas stations where they serve tea and coffee to-go, to keep drivers nicely caffeinated along their journeys. Tea with mint quickly became a favorite for me, while Neil stuck to the black coffee.
We stopped to see the Bahla Fort and then journeyed to our hotel for the night, the Nizwa Heritage Inn. This Fort had so many staircases and stunning doors and ceilings. Even before getting to Oman, Neil and I thought it would be fun to dress in traditional Omani clothes. Salim was incredibly helpful in guiding us to stores with reputable products as well as negotiating on prices.
Neil was able to get a dishdasha, the long white robe worn by men, accompanied by a turban and a kumma, a beautifully embroidered hat. I went with a regionally traditional Omani dress, pants, and headscarf. We had an incredible meal for dinner and topped it off with dates and coffee.
The next morning, we had another early start after breakfast on our way to the desert. Along the 2 and a half hour drive, we stopped to take in another stunning waterway (Falaj Al-Khatmeen) and the 600 year old Birkat Al Mouz village. Another village oasis surrounded by palm trees, the views from above and inside were incredible.
The adventure into the desert was just that! We did some sand dune bashing, where Salim very skillfully drove up and down the sand dunes to provide us with some adrenaline! We continued along the desert highway, where camels dotting the landscape. Our journey ended in the Bedouin camp, where we had more dates, coffee, and I partook in Henna. The women in the tent were incredibly hospitable and we loved our time, taking in the beautiful surroundings in the respite from the desert sun.
The Sama Desert Camp made for a fun evening’s stay, with large tents for the dining area. It was a very windy evening and we had gone up into the sand dunes to take some pictures and ended up spending a while in the car as the sandstorm took shape. Thankfully, the winds died down as the evening wore on and we enjoyed our dinner and live music under the stars.
Our quintessential camel ride in the desert took place the next morning after breakfast. We took a short ride on two camels that were far from the friendliest animals we encountered during the trip.
We carried onward for about an hour and a half to a true oasis at Wadi Bani Khalid. The rocky mountainside roads wind towards an unassuming parking lot, with a few palm trees. As you walk to the Wadi, you see the foliage increase and become more lush as you see and hear water flowing. In public swimming areas, it is mandatory for women to have their tops covered and long pants to the knees. I wore a rash guard over my bikini and long board shorts and felt comfortable while in the swimming hole. Neil took a plunge off a high cliff into the stunning colored waters.
From the oasis, we took a long 4 hour journey to Sur. This town sits right on the coast and we took a quick stop at a fishing boat yard after lunch. On the way back to Muscat, we stopped by a beach and took in the coastline some more.
Our last full day in Oman was spent in Muscat, taking in the Grand Mosque to start the day. Here, women must cover their head and hair and wear long pants and sleeves. I decided to wear my traditional Omani clothing since it was respectful, and Neil did the same. The mosque is stunning. Every surface of marble and glass shining in the sun, while the interior prayers rooms sparkle with chandeliers and stained glass.
The impeccable gardens surrounding the buildings also leave your mind inspired
We took a tour of the Amouge fragrance factory and I indulged in a few take home souvenirs. From there, we spent some time at the Avenue Mall and then enjoyed a traditional Omani lunch.
Next we spent some time in the National Museum, learning about the history of Omani clothing, forts, currency, and ships.
The Al Alam Palace was viewable only from the outside, but the surrounding grounds were again stunning.
Our next stop was the Mutrah Souq, a large marketplace with an overwhelming number of food, spice, jewelry, and clothing vendors.
Our last views of Muscat were the iconic Royal Opera House. The sun was completely set and we were able to take in a unique view of the architecture in the darkness.
We enjoyed one more dinner with Salim and Khair. The unwavering hospitality of both guides left us feeling thankful for them accompanying us on our travels and saddened that travel would soon be suspended. While we know that travel is not recommended at this time, we do recommend a visit to Oman when you have the chance! We hope to make it back again soon, so we can explore all that the country has to offer.
This entry was posted in Middle East